View Full Version : So the question is..........

Mr. Haunt
02-07-2007, 02:05 PM
I know its outt her but no one talkes about it. How do you go about conecting your walls together withought the use of nail's, screw's, brackets, and so on?

Kevin Dells
02-07-2007, 02:24 PM
You will need some sort of securing system. Home Depot carries Simpson Strong ties (thats what we use) A couple on each side of the two panels and drywall screws would be all you would need to latch them together and you use 2x4's for bracing on the top.

Materials you can't use in my area would be nothing rubber,no tires at all not even on props. If you want to use a car or a riding lawn mower in a schene take the tires and gas tank off.

Black Plastic! Big No No! Has to be convention tafita(SP),water needs to be able to go through. Tafita= expensive, which leads to not covering the top of the walls with plastic or paying through the nose.

You may get away with camo net,we do.
No hay bales! Any cloth needs to be flame retarded!

Do you need emergency light up signage? We have to have one every 120' at an emergency door. Big bucks once youve got the electric line to power it added in.

02-07-2007, 03:18 PM
My haunt uses an interlocking wall system. 3/8" plywood sheathing is attached to 2 x 3 framing offset by about 1". This creates a "tongue" on one side of the wall panel a "groove" on the other. To attach the panels together the "tongue" of one wall slides into the "groove" on the other wall. Drywall screws are screwed through the "groove" side of the sheathing through the "tongue" of the other wall. The only bracing required is across the tops of the walls. I use 2 x 3's for this.

Dark Attraction
02-07-2007, 08:01 PM
Never, ever, ever use nails. Always use screws. Drywall screws are fairly cheap in bulk. Invest in a couple of good screwguns, the 18 volt DeWalts are good for the price. This will be your most used tool, so don't go with the cheap Black and Decker (and especially not Ryobi.) I picked up a Ridgid 18v this year because it has a better warranty than the DeWalts, but it is too heavy for constant use. The best screwgun I ever had was the 19.2 volt Porter Cable, but they are harder to find batteries and parts for. If you can afford the extra $100, go with the 3 speed model DeWalt. Also, a screwgun holster for your toolbelt costs about $15 and will save you tons of hastle.

Jim Warfield
02-07-2007, 08:27 PM
Hey there "Dark", Do you think none of us guys have ever screwed before?
My personal favorite is an old 12 volt Skill Warrior drill . It isn't too heavy, it isn't too weak, it fits my hand better than most and it cost something like $50.00, I own two of them and they still are going strong after all these years.
Advice: Be sure and use enough screws because screws can break some are brittle.

Hell American Freak
02-08-2007, 12:13 PM

For set up...


For tear down...

02-08-2007, 01:42 PM
we actually just run 3 dry wall screws through the 2x4 of one wall into the 2x4 in the wall next to it, and plenty of 2x4's on top to brace. We have some walls that have been being assembled like this for 20 years and are still in good shape.

02-08-2007, 01:47 PM
I do this with my single sided interlocking walls. The double sided interlocking walls get screwed throught the front and back sides of the overlapping wall sheathing.

02-10-2007, 01:46 PM
we use 4x8 panels made of 2x4s and 1/2"plywood. then just shoot them together with a nailgun. you need to use the harbor freight nails without the glue if you want to take it apart easly

Jim Warfield
02-10-2007, 06:42 PM
My last two walls I am finishing were built this way:

Drill holes through the concrete floor(Basement) put re-bar into holes, form wooden form around the rebar, put rebar lentghwise, wire it tightly together to hold wooden walls in place.
Mix and pour concrete into the wooden form.
Build a 4 by 8 by 12 concrete block wall at the rear of the concrete slab just made. Slide some of the concrete blocks over the rebar.
Mortar them together.
Mortar bricks infront of the concrete blocks, filling the small space between them with mortar.
This wall stops about 2 1/2 feet in it's upward construction.
Threaded rod is cemented into some of the slots in the concrete blocks in the top of the wall, they are left protruding about 4 inches.
A 2 by 4 (painted and pressure-treated) is fastened down to the top of the concrete blocks via the threaded rods, holes drilled in the wood, bolted down.
I finish building this 2 by 4 wall up to it's total needed height.
The 2 by 4's get cement board screwed to it.
I build 2 by 4 forms with a half-circle at the top, then mortar bricks around it , creating brick arches and open spaces, backed by cement board.
The basement concrete floor this all rests upon is a full 4 inches or better thick and is very old, tough cement .
I save some weight by going to wood 2 by 4's and cement board for the last 5 feet of wall, yet it still all looks like it is all masonary, which it basically is.
My bricks and rocks were all free or extremely cheap, an 80 pound bag of mortar is now $6.00?
These walls compliment the secret passageways and secret doors that look like walls of like materials.
The first wall replaces a wooden wall made out old barn boards, the second wall makes the "pocket" for the massive, steel-welded sliding door I recently finished that opens and closes automatically or when I want it to.
If there is no electricity or air pressure the sliding door is still free to be slid to the side by hand and requires little effort to do so.
It opens quickly, closes slowly. The jagged teeth on the edge of the door are padded. I need a warmer day to stand outside and make the wall-mounted teeth to mesh with the door's teeth, also to be padded.
And this is what I have been working on for the last month or so....