I have several mask that some of my workers didn't take care of and just ripped them off when they was done. So now I am trying to fine a way to repair them... Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix them... a step by step would be appreciated... Also does anyone have any secrets on how the make mask if workers better... some of mine are to tight and some of way to big... I really want to get away from mask... but scared to, because no knowledge on makeup and stuff...
first step what are the masks made out of? latex, silicone, plastic,etc.
I can fix anything you have no matter what its made of. There will be no visible lines or patches of any kind. You will never find the repair......Better then new . I was a conservator for museums and can just about restore or remake anything. Costs depends on the damage. If anyone else out there has torn apart creatures, mask or props that look ready for the garbage can, I will buy them or restore them for you.....give me a shout.
I think he wants to do it himself as opposed to pay someone (though Im sure your reasonably priced).
Because its going to be lengthy I will type up a turorial in word then post it. It may be later this evening as I have a full plate today.
Sorry Allen, I jumped the gun and did not read the entire post. It would be sort of a lengthy tutorial.
Originally Posted by JonnyB
This may not be the proper way to fix them but this is what i do. I take an old mask that I no longer use or cut extra off the neck or back of the mask Im fixing. I cut it to the size of the area im patching. Using liquid latex I apply it to the latex patch or piece and then from the inside I apply it to the hole or rip. I also fill in and reinforce from the sides and back and front. Seems to do the trick. And works well.
Here you go, I hope this helps you out. Sorry it took so long.
Latex Mask repair
1. If there is a rip in a latex mask use a hole punch to punch a hole at the end of the rip. That will help to keep the rip from spreading further., a rip can “run” because all of the stress on the latex is funneled into the end of the rip. Then it rips further.
The hole at the end of the rip diffuses the stress in all directions, and helps keep it from spreading.
2. Clean the mask and the area around the rip. Isopropyl alcohol, or citri-solv cleaner should be used. Rinse and cleaner off of the mask with water and let dry.
Latex is an organic compound so it rots the same way wood rots. It is tree sap so it’s a fairly fragile material. Through the years more and more fillers are put into latex as les natural latex is harvested. Masks made in the 1960s are likely to be in better shape than a mask poured in 2002. The fillers they use to stretch the latex actually make it more susceptible to breakdown. Sticky spots may form on the latex. It is not something on the latex but a breakdown of the latex itself. Basically it is latex cancer. It must be cut out. If any remains it will breakdown the latex around it and spread and ruin the mask.
3. To patch your mask you will need a few things. Scissors, rubber cement (contact cement will do in a pinch) latex, Masking tape (wide), Panty hose material, and toilet paper (unscented). Alternatively you could use cabosil or even corn starch as opposed to toilet paper its basically going to serve as a thickener for the latex.
There are many different materials to use, but they are basically a glue, a mechanical lock, and a patching compound.
4. Tape along the rip on the inside of the mask. The tape serves two purposes it holds the area together until the latex and glue dries and it prevents your patching compound from falling through.
5. Apply glue along the seam and give about an inch of overlap on each side of the tear/ hole. Let that dry completely. Contact cement and rubber cement both off gas while drying (and after to a lesser extent). If you trap the gas inside the latex layers it will break down the latex at a faster rate. You can sand the latex a bit to rough up the surface so the glue bonds better.
6. Once that is dry gently remove the tape from the inside of the mask and apply glue just like you did on the outside of the mask. But this time as the glue is drying press in a strip of the panty hose material. The squares of the material will catch plenty of glue and really help hold the seam together. If the edge of the material sticks up and makes a ridge, then you will need to fill it in so it tapers, any ridge could cause rubbing and irritation of the actor inside of the mask.
7. Filling/patching- for the ridges inside the mask and the areas on the outside you will want to fill those in and smooth them out. Rip your toilet paper into tiny pieces. You want to remove any straight edges from the paper. A straight line will catch the eye faster than a torn edge. Once its all torn up into tiny pieces start adding the TP to the latex use a popsicle stick or something to thoroughly mix it. You want to add enough TP (or cabosil/ cornstarch) so the latex is somewhere in consistency between a paste and a putty.
8. Using a popsicle stick like a spatula, use the mixture to fill in the gaps and smooth out the areas on the mask that need it. This is an art- it takes practice. Textures that make it blend in can be achieved with a brush or a Popsicle stick. Allow it to dry completely before painting. The thicker it is the longer it will take to dry it will also be dry on the outside before its dry on the inside
9. Painting- I use exterior latex house paint on my latex masks, I add latex to it to make it a touch more elastic. Often it is easier to do a complete repaint as opposed to color matching the paint job that was already on it. Painting is another tutorial all together, but the easiest is path is to mix up a thin black paint and cover the whole mask, the when that dries dry brush the mask with a base color. I have a dry brushing tutorial on my youtube channel here.
My methods may not be the same as everyone else's, but they work for me.
A quick fix I usually do for tears or holes in latex masks is to wipe it down on the inside with 90% alcohol to open up the pores, then a layer of RD407 (or Screamline Mask Latex) on inside and lighly in the tear, then a layer of cheesecloth, then another layer of latex to encapsulate the cheesecloth. Dry, then powder with baby powder. There are plenty of other cleaner and more complex ways as well...and unfortunately due to the possible different makeup and fillers in different latex, it may not always bond perfectly. Hope this is somewhat of a help.
Mike "Pogo" Hach
Awesome tutorial Allen !! you just summed up my entire month of November in that post. I keep a tube pf super glue and duct tape handyfor field repairs while the haunts running. I use a little super glue to close the seam of the tear and the duct tape over the tear from inside. you will still have to do the latex repair later but this can get you thru a busy night. make sure glue is dry and tape smoothed out so they dont get in in their hair