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wall and ceiling construction need advise

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  • #16
    Just finsihed our walls!

    We just finished getting our walls up, using the same methods outlined in a couple of different postings I have found. Basically using the "tongue and groove" approach to our walls, but modifying the materials slightly. I did use OSB despite the weight factor for one reason - the strength of OSB is actually higher than plywood because of how it is constructed. When you have 4x8 sheets, front and back of each panel, they do weigh a lot and you'll be sore after lugging these things around for a few days but I am hoping the extra strength and weight will work to our advantage.

    I substituted 2x4 with 1x3 and saved about $400 in cost. This also reduced the weight some. I dont see any issues in durability and tested several of the walls myself (I am 275 pds, and they didnt budge under my weight). We did anchor the tops to increase strength and stability.

    I didnt do anything with the concrete floor. It doesnt appear we are going to need to after putting these things up. I think again the weight of the OSB worked in our favor.

    BTW, the OSB here in NC/VA was cheaper than plywood by about .30 - not a lot but when you are buying 110 sheets of the stuff it adds up quick!
    Travis "Big T" Russell
    President
    Big T Productions Inc

    Owner and Operator of "The Plague" and "Camp Nightmare"

    Customer Quote of the year: "Damn, I pissed myself"

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    • #17
      One more thing about OSB

      Forgot one more thing about OSB - there are two sides to teh sheets. One side is smooth and the other is textured and rough. If you paint the smooth side it paints real well, and doesnt look like OSB. The smooth side also uses less paint for some reason (this comes from my painter who paints for a living).
      Travis "Big T" Russell
      President
      Big T Productions Inc

      Owner and Operator of "The Plague" and "Camp Nightmare"

      Customer Quote of the year: "Damn, I pissed myself"

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      • #18
        I don't know the codes in Florida. You aren't building anything, you are assembing a temporary modular wall system. If similar to anything conventional is more like do you need a building permit to assemble cubes in an office building. It is not a permanent structure unless you build it like a conventional building interior walls with no panel joints. If it is continuous anchored walls, you are into building something. Then they will say it needs to be metal studs and drywall and pre approved layout and there is no alternative to the codes or the wiring that is supposed to be inside the walls instead of just run along the top.

        You are just doing it like everyone else does it in the rest of the country. The codes are federal in base but local in enforcement. If there is a problem with that, move to where people are smarter and are not just making up rules as they go to sound important.

        Alas a modular wall system is designed to move or be in any shape necessary or be modified in layout to comply to access standards. It can move across the floor or across the State or accross the country.
        sigpic

        Another fabulous post from the U.S.Department of Wild Imaginings, now in spectaclar stereo, sponsored by the Adhesives and Sealants Council, suggesting ways to stick things together since the 1800s. Not fabulous in a gay way. Your results may vary. Illinois residents add 8% sales tax. These posts have been made by professional post makers, do not try this type of posting on your own without extensive training, lovely assistants and a trusty clown horn.

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        • #19
          Great Idea!

          Originally posted by savageroad View Post
          This year we are using the material for our ceilings that you would find on the bottom of your sofa or chair. We found a local upholstery shop that gets the stuff they use for under the seats in small airplanes. It is flame retardant, lets air and water through but keeps out a lot of the light. We get a 36" x 300' roll for about $60 bucks. We should be able to do most of the rooms in our 8,000 sq ft haunt with about 3-4 rolls.
          Does it rip easily or anything? I've never thought of using this... just out of curiousity have you tried lighting a small piece on fire to see how it reacts? Also have you experimented with fog machines with it yet?

          Sorry so many questions I'm just very interested in this idea.

          Ryan

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          • #20
            Cambric

            The stuff is called cambric and it lets just enough overhead light in so when your house lights are on you can see but it keeps most other light in or out of the room. When you light it on fire it shrivels up but does not ignite. Just to be safe we are spraying it with flame retardant. It does not rip easy (it is like landscape fabric) and it will keep the fog in your room for the most part and still lets air in and out.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by savageroad View Post
              The stuff is called cambric and it lets just enough overhead light in so when your house lights are on you can see but it keeps most other light in or out of the room. When you light it on fire it shrivels up but does not ignite. Just to be safe we are spraying it with flame retardant. It does not rip easy (it is like landscape fabric) and it will keep the fog in your room for the most part and still lets air in and out.
              Wow, sounds like you've found some great stuff! I'm going to have to give this a try. I'm so tired of putting walls up to the ceiling to keep out the lighting from other areas of the haunt. Thanks for the informatioin!

              Ryan

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              • #22
                ceilings

                If you have low ceilings in your building use black plastic from the top of the wall to the building ceiling. I know the industry standard says plastic is a no no but our fire inspector is fine with it as long as it is not used to drape across a room where if it melts it would come down on people. When we build pallet walls we use the plastic also to cover the back of the pallets so customers cant see through them.

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                • #23
                  What about:

                  Instead of using all tongue and groove and having to actually make each panel, how about using a steel u channel sign post, kindorf? It is about $3 - $5 per foot depending on the weight. Put a strip down the top of the wall section and the bottom connecting multiple walls. They make 'L' brackets for them to create bends. I'm not sure if that is cheaper or more expensive than building each panel tongue and groove style, but I am sure it will be much quicker to place a ply wood sheet up and bolt kindorf into the back.
                  Has anyone every tried this or thought of doing this for their haunt walls?
                  I know it works and is very sturdy even when barring weight for I have built entire rooms this way layered with 28 seamless monitors creating a complete 360 picture, or 112 individual videos. (It was really cool to play games on hah)

                  -Nick

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