I do like the idea of the suspended floor, although we do have a bridge on the trail that has a similar effect... Maybe we can somehow incorporate it and keep it different enough that it wouldn't just be a repeat...
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Good option.
As with all things, YMMV. If it works better with a 12' section, do a 12' section. If 8', do 8'. What you mainly want is a stable footing. If you had a 4' section, that could be the middle of a pace for someone, where they step onto it with one foot, and off of it with the other, where they only have the one foot making contact, which would create that potential for slipping and falling. It doesn't have to move too much. Just a few inches in any given direction is more than enough.
It would be great to have a thread or even a subforum dedicated to funhouse effects. Again, usually cheap or free, since the cost is absorbed by the base cost of building the haunt in the first place.
C.
I do like the idea of the suspended floor, although we do have a bridge on the trail that has a similar effect... Maybe we can somehow incorporate it and keep it different enough that it wouldn't just be a repeat...
If hidden well enough Jennifer they'd have no idea it was even close to the same thing. Patrons experience effects but rarely in my experience do they notice when it's the same..unless it's visual.
Might give the suspended bridge, vibrating floor a go next year. It really only needs to be a foot above the ground or so if that much to move and shift. Add some shingles or something to it for better traction to reduce slipping.
What about using transducers to make the floor vibrate ?
Or do a rope bridge with planking in the middle, so there is a wide enough path for ADA and building code compliance, but that would still feel claustrophobic and unstable. Also, no scaring on the bridge. That can create issues and it's just not needed.
C.
Could attempt to build a "frame" much like a wall frame, but have the edges set higher. Then fille the frame holes, or dead space with golf balls, then place a sheet of plywood cut to fit within the frame, I included a mockup made in Paint.. Nothing special, ill see if I can upload something better, hopefully you get the idea.
The Black would represent the raised edges of the frame, (put a sheet of plywood on bottom side as well), the red would represent some 2x'4s cut to length, and maybe use 2x2 pieces as the cross bars within the frame to seperate spaces of golf balls. It'd give the same effect, and would cost about... $25 at most, maybe less i you already had some plywood to use on it.Could then try somehow attaching handrails or building handrails maybe that somehow run off the wall or some better way to fit regulations. Anyway, I made one of these myself and it works great, Ive used it in home haunts, but as I will be moving to the Commercial Haunt level for the 2013 season. If you have any questions about this just ask!
movingfloor.png
Last edited by Adam Calhoun; 11-17-2012 at 12:56 AM.
This is actually very similar to how we were thinking about going about making these. Having a maybe 1x2 "lip" on top around the edge to keep the plywood that moves in place... Do the golf balls work well enough? With both rolling, and weight if more than one person was stepping on that spot at once... My boyfriend was thinking about different options, like castors on the plywood itself, or ball bearings. etc.
Same principle as the golf balls. This is an excellent design. The handrails wouldn't need to be load bearing; just stabilizing.
The advantage of the golf balls is that they are easily available, and virtually free. Pretty much any thrift store setting, or perhaps dead balls from a golf driving range, and so on, that would work. The golf balls should be enough if you have enough of them. If you have enough balls, you should get enough weight distribution to make it work. The holes that hold the golf balls should be big enough so that the golf balls can freely move around an inch or so so that they can get the whole floor section moving. Test the design out small scale. YMMV.
C.
as for the "lip" I just used a 2x4 . So basically the frame made with 2x4's on there side(taller), then the red lines along the EDGE would be 2x4 laid flat and use 2x2's as your crossing section, with the 2x4 laid flat again down the middle. This would allow your Golf Balls to roll freely, it'd be like racking a pool table but taking out 1 or two of the balls in it, they would move freely like that, but not so few as to it not being able to support the wood on top. I will get you a picture of this tomorrow and send it to you, please PM me your email.![]()
Sounds good, I will definitely do that
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