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Brick Facade ideas needed

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Greg Chrise View Post
    Ken, do you have a source for 3/4 inch reinforced tape? We have been reduced to doing 3/4 inch masking tape then layering 1/2 over that for a pattern.

    Thanks, Greg.
    Greg, I sell it. I have 3/4 1/2 3/8 1/4 and 1/8 fiberglass re enforced tape. My # 530-945-5125
    Ken L.

    http://www.thedreamsofdarkness.com

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    • #17
      Cool. I had to buy tons of 1/2 inch at a time. I'm writing down your number.
      sigpic

      Another fabulous post from the U.S.Department of Wild Imaginings, now in spectaclar stereo, sponsored by the Adhesives and Sealants Council, suggesting ways to stick things together since the 1800s. Not fabulous in a gay way. Your results may vary. Illinois residents add 8% sales tax. These posts have been made by professional post makers, do not try this type of posting on your own without extensive training, lovely assistants and a trusty clown horn.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Allen H View Post
        I am one opinion of many, but I would do it in foam. It would not be cheap, but it will look better than brick board. I would carve the mortar lines with a soldering iron, heat gun it for texture, then use acrylic stucco (shot from a hopper) to coat it, and then detail paint the bricks. I am in Dallas TX and used the same techniques on white foam for my castle and it looks great after seven years.
        Allen H
        When you say you would do it in foam you are referring to just white foam as in your case correct? What kind of paint did you use on everything?

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        • #19
          Id use pinkfoam. and exterior paint. That is about it.
          www.Stiltbeaststudios.com
          http://www.youtube.com/user/Stiltbea...s?feature=mhee

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Allen H View Post
            I am one opinion of many, but I would do it in foam. It would not be cheap, but it will look better than brick board. I would carve the mortar lines with a soldering iron, heat gun it for texture, then use acrylic stucco (shot from a hopper) to coat it, and then detail paint the bricks. I am in Dallas TX and used the same techniques on white foam for my castle and it looks great after seven years.
            Allen H
            Where do you get your foam? I am building an indoor facade after our Christmas event and was planning on using the foam carving technique. This is all new to me and I am just going off of what I have seen on youtube so wish me luck.
            Richard Alvarado
            Moxley Manor Haunted House

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            • #21
              009.JPG028.JPG I have Many things outside made from all types of foam and they all have to be touched up before October. A brick wall that size may be a pain with foam. I have things I have done with what I described in recent post that is over 15 years old and looks as good as the day I did it. GOOD LUCK
              Ken L.

              http://www.thedreamsofdarkness.com

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Allen H View Post
                Id use pinkfoam. and exterior paint. That is about it.

                I was asking which foam you were referring to cause you mentioned using acylic stucco as well. I figured just heat gun the stuff and paint would be about it. I don't expect it to last forever. As long as I can get a few years out of it with maybe a little touching up if needed.
                Last edited by Skeered; 11-19-2012, 10:29 AM.

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                • #23
                  I could but wouldn't want to do a brick pattern on ladders and scaffolding. Very time consuming. With the foam you are sort of putting the pattern up there quickly and maybe doing some seams. All of the up in the air stuff isn't in contact with people or things like a floor or concrete deck would be. Or like something that gets moved around seasonally. I would do it in pink foam as it is more dense and reacts nice to the heat gun. Perhaps a larger block pattern like a castle could be white foam.

                  Someone was making vacuform panels that looked pretty good but they were just as much as if you hand made the bricks any other way then additionally needed to be painted and detailed. Putting a full stucco base coat and brick design adds lots of weight to the structure so you are increasing costs by having to frame everything in 2x6 or metal. I don't think the vacuform people lasted or couldn't provide product. They were like $180 non painted and $260 painted. That's like $8 per square foot and even as a contractor, we do brick patterns depending on size fo $4 to $6 per Square foot. Maybe it would get into $8 if we had to travel and install on location.

                  Most facades we have built in the shop then installed and antiqued on location, or torn down an existing facade and layed it out on location, added to it on the ground then reassembled it rather than work on a scaffold. These have been locations that were either indoor large buildings or the exterior of the building couldn't be turned into a construction site. Most of this is very messy and requires drop cloths and lots of regular clean up.

                  So, foam for up high and something more substantial like the concrete or stucco overlay system on lower portions where people will lean against it. It can actually be made to match. There needs be some element in the design to break up the seams or the difference between the upper and lower levels.

                  Having a great facade is a deal maker to customers but very few are willing to spend the time and money to provide one.
                  Last edited by Greg Chrise; 11-19-2012, 10:41 AM.
                  sigpic

                  Another fabulous post from the U.S.Department of Wild Imaginings, now in spectaclar stereo, sponsored by the Adhesives and Sealants Council, suggesting ways to stick things together since the 1800s. Not fabulous in a gay way. Your results may vary. Illinois residents add 8% sales tax. These posts have been made by professional post makers, do not try this type of posting on your own without extensive training, lovely assistants and a trusty clown horn.

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                  • #24
                    I was figuring on have a small ledge at 8' on the horizontal seam. Maybe some fancier work where customers are up close to hide some vertical seams. Yup, I don't care about being up on scaffolding or a ladder either. May be one of those things where I rent a scissor lift to throw it all up. The 8x12 brick room I had in my haunt looked great. Even at 4' away looking at a seam under light looked pretty good as I spent time to make sure the joints lined up nicely. From a distance you'll never notice.

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                    • #25
                      I get my pink foam from Home depot and I get my white EPS foam from Powerfoam in Midlothian TX.
                      www.Stiltbeaststudios.com
                      http://www.youtube.com/user/Stiltbea...s?feature=mhee

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                      • #26
                        Rehashing an old but useful thread

                        http://www.hauntworld.com/haunted_ho...foam-sculpting
                        O'Shawn McClendon
                        Creative Chair -- Operator: Cayce-West Columbia Hall of Horrors

                        One mans junk is another mans kick-ass new prop...

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                        • #27
                          Foam Brick Wall

                          Hello,

                          I live in Florida. I use allot of foam, not only for sets but signs as well. Yes, I do prefer and recommend using a urethane hard coat over the foam then a texture coat (if texture is wanted) over the top of it. Sometimes the customers do not have the budget to do so though, so I give them what they want. I have done signs with raw EPS Styrofoam with allot of layers of exterior paint over it. The sign pictured has been up for seven years, through several tropical storms and still looks good (just starting to show age). The city gates to Bethlehem pictured is raw EPS Styrofoam with a texture coat over it. It has been up for almost five years. It has survived as well. The only repairs I had to do were due to a tree falling on part of it and a vandal vandalized a part. These were minor repairs too. I have done other projects around the country and some out but those had a urethane hard coat over it. This year Night Terrors Haunted House in Jacksonville Florida had asked me to build a water drainage tunnel in their Attraction named Outbreak. The designer, Nate Mitchell of N8 Creative Studios designed it with some brick into it. The entrance to the tunnel is a brick pattern I had cut on the hot wire machine in rows. They were glued staggered onto a plywood backing then a texture coat was applied. It survived allot of traffic without any damage. This was an indoor attraction though. If you want to see more pictures check out my company page at: https://www.facebook.com/scenicartproductions I hope this gives you some help.

                          Good Luck,
                          Robert Travis
                          Scenic Art Productions
                          ScenicArtProductions@Yahoo.COM
                          https://www.facebook.com/scenicartproductions
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