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  • Brick Facade ideas needed

    Looking to put up a brick facade 16'-18' in height and about 125'-150' in length.

    Pink foam is my first choice because of price, weight, and I can work with it to make it however I wanted to look. Downside is my facade will be up all year. 100 degrees in the summer and low 20's during the winter. Don't want it to blow away in the wind either. I also would have to figure out how I would want to mount it as well.

    Any ideas cause faux brick panels cost money and finding enough used or surplus brick may be a problem as well.

  • #2
    Shane, Graystone on here, turned me onto this cool brick paneling from Lowes.

    It's not too expensive, in fact, if you compare it with the final costs of time/labor/paint/hard coating of doing the brick into pink foam, it's about the same in price. And if you buy a LOT you can get some pretty nifty discounts. And it looks INCREDIBLE!

    Oh and they're sold in 4x8 sheets, and are VERY sturdy.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Skeered View Post
      Looking to put up a brick facade 16'-18' in height and about 125'-150' in length.

      Pink foam is my first choice because of price, weight, and I can work with it to make it however I wanted to look. Downside is my facade will be up all year. 100 degrees in the summer and low 20's during the winter. Don't want it to blow away in the wind either. I also would have to figure out how I would want to mount it as well.

      Any ideas cause faux brick panels cost money and finding enough used or surplus brick may be a problem as well.
      Try this from Home Depot.
      http://www.homedepot.com/buy/4-ft-x-...l#.UKbDdX1MHMI
      Richard Alvarado
      Moxley Manor Haunted House

      www.moxleymanor.com
      www.nightscarebeforechristmas.com
      Stalk Us on Facebook
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      • #4
        Yeah. Those gaslight panels are only $26 a sheet versus $8.5 for a sheet of pink foam. They also had wood fibers on the back so maybe not completely water resistant if water hits the backside. A guy I know has a cnc router. Thought I would let him route out all the mortar grooves on pink foam and I would distress, heat gun it, and paint them. Still doesn't help though with them being flimsy and vulnerable as they are though. I'll have to look around more to see if I can find some of those panels at a better rate and go from there...

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        • #5
          The brick panels from Lowes are nice but too clean looking as is so you'd have to paint them up a little to age them. Also they are not meant for outdoor use once they get wet they will buckle.


          Jake

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          • #6
            If using foam you'd still need a wood base at least and then the foam so that will add costs. The foam will need to be hard coated which is costly too.

            Jake

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            • #7
              Latex paint the whole backside and any other exposed wood surface, will help make it weather resistant. They are clean, but that's what haunter creativity is for, water down some ugly paint and go hard!!

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              • #8
                I think pink foam may be the best bet for you. If done correctly, it can look quite convincing as well as hold up to the elements providing you seal/protect it correctly.
                Zach Wiechmann
                www.frontyardfright.com

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                • #9
                  I did a 8x12 10'tall "brick room" in my haunt this year. I routered out all the brick lines, heat gunned it which hardened it, sprayed it with gray paint for the mortar grooves, then rolled on some red. Looked extremely nice and pretty tough.

                  Whether I attach something directly to the building or set up poles against the building I am going to lathe it every 2' horizontally and 4' vertically. Maybe even block it every 2' vertically. Haven't got that far yet.

                  What I wonder is how well the pink foam will hold up with 100 degree heat beating on it all day during the summer?

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                  • #10
                    I once bought...

                    About 6 large pick up truck loads of antique, soft, illregular bricks for $100.oo
                    They look "OLD, because they ARE! Saves time and money trying to make them look old, and they WILL take 100 degree heat!
                    Bags of mortar have gotten cheaper around here at least. Customers will be impressed.
                    OF course the easy way to impress them is to just have the real bricks installed at locations where they will be close to them and use the brick paneling for the further away locations.
                    The ancient bricks I have are identicle to the bricks used in New Orleans on those above ground tombs.
                    It is fun building a plywood and 2by 4 arch, laying the bricks up over it, then removing the plywood and WOW! Look at the nice real brick arch!
                    hauntedravensgrin.com

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Skeered View Post
                      Looking to put up a brick facade 16'-18' in height and about 125'-150' in length.

                      Pink foam is my first choice because of price, weight, and I can work with it to make it however I wanted to look. Downside is my facade will be up all year. 100 degrees in the summer and low 20's during the winter. Don't want it to blow away in the wind either. I also would have to figure out how I would want to mount it as well.

                      Any ideas cause faux brick panels cost money and finding enough used or surplus brick may be a problem as well.

                      IMO, you're asking for a LOT here if you want it to last a long time- and why do it if you can't get your money's worth out of it?. I'm going out on a limb here and say that faux panels AND foam is going to fail you in the end if you think is can be accomplished on the cheap side.

                      Even if you already had a solid backing to stick the foam to, it would still have to be hard coated in some way. If you just paint it, you'll either have to put up with an ever growing number of pink spots showing up, or be willing to repaint it yearly- and touch-ups look just that- like a touch-up. You'll be working for the wall, instead of the other way around...

                      An 18' high x 150' long, real brick wall?! Jeebus!
                      How can a man die better than facing fearful odds, for the ashes of his fathers and the temple of his gods.

                      What you put into your mind- you put into your life.


                      www.zombietoxin.com

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                      • #12
                        Everyone throws this word hard coat out there and I have no idea what they are talking about. Foam and the paint you put over it will put up with 100 degrees as long as the stucture inderneath isn't wobbling around in the wind all the time. Just look at any modern construction and they are going 30 and 40 foot high with metal studs, then 1/2 inch or 7/16 OSB, a layer of barrier cloth then white styrofoam and then stucco base coat, stucco texture finish an done. A serious number of anchors are shot through the foam and I have done mobile facades from pink foam that end up being 24 foot by 80. They are now more than 6 years old and stored outside in the open when not on location. Touching them up from handling and totally repainting them every couple years was in the plan.

                        The act of freshening up paint jobs is like a performance art that "they are getting ready" and advertsing in a way. Seeing activity, it is going to be on this year.

                        Just doing the heat gun hardens the surface. Now we do add cement formulas and additives rather than just water to provide a texture then paint, antique and final clear all in exterior grade acrylics. To make it last is simple, you have to use $50 a gallon paint instead of $25 per gallon paint even for the watered down washes. Do you want to paint every year or have the thing peel off and be unsightly or would you like to go about 5 years with out messing with it. That's the real difference. I seem to keep getting work because the old work still "sells" and I don't have to advertise or anything. If it was crap I think I would have been out of that game 18 years ago. The do it yourselfer doesn't get to see what happens over time, they only think about expense at that moment in time.

                        Applying hard coats can be tricky and can delaminate as well so less is better. You have to adhere it to the panel with lots and lots of glue and possibly base coat the OSB on both sides before applying anything for it to last. Other fascades we have done are use mobile but are seriously heavy 3/4 plywood and 2 by 6 structures and usually some corner gets knocked off of the concrete over lay with a fork truck moving it around or almost dropping it. The styrofoam units can be assembled on the ground and a bunch of people stand it up and anchor it over large windows with heavy metal frames and bang, an architecual design from the 60s becomes haunted mansion in half a day. It is also located in tornado alley and is still being used.

                        No, there are no pictures, I just do stuff.
                        sigpic

                        Another fabulous post from the U.S.Department of Wild Imaginings, now in spectaclar stereo, sponsored by the Adhesives and Sealants Council, suggesting ways to stick things together since the 1800s. Not fabulous in a gay way. Your results may vary. Illinois residents add 8% sales tax. These posts have been made by professional post makers, do not try this type of posting on your own without extensive training, lovely assistants and a trusty clown horn.

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                        • #13
                          65777_155819567797104_2527037_n.jpgIf you have the plywood up or even better would be hardibacker attached to the wood frame. So if its plywood you need a moisture barrier then attach chicken wire or there is stucco wire with moisture backing already on it, staple it up well to the plywood and do a thin layer of type s mortar to cover the wire let dry and tape off the 4x8 brick pattern with 1/2 inch fiber reinforced tape if you can't find it I keep it in stock, now after its all taped off mix up more type s mortar and add in terracotta color you can find it at Home Depot in dry or liquid then do a thin layer over the whole wall and if you want a old brick look slap some white and black paint all over it randomly then pull off all the tape leaving the new brick look and you can seal it to make it last longer if you would like. if you use hardi or wonder board you don't need the wire but tape the seams with the fiberglass drywall tape and then the first thin layer over that. Any questions just ask i do this also for my work www.icoatproducts.com I have the tape and sealers if you cant find them. I also have facebook pages under Ken Lavender. sorry photo is sideways.
                          Last edited by Dreamreaper; 11-18-2012, 11:10 AM.
                          Ken L.

                          http://www.thedreamsofdarkness.com

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                          • #14
                            Ken, do you have a source for 3/4 inch reinforced tape? We have been reduced to doing 3/4 inch masking tape then layering 1/2 over that for a pattern.

                            Thanks, Greg.
                            sigpic

                            Another fabulous post from the U.S.Department of Wild Imaginings, now in spectaclar stereo, sponsored by the Adhesives and Sealants Council, suggesting ways to stick things together since the 1800s. Not fabulous in a gay way. Your results may vary. Illinois residents add 8% sales tax. These posts have been made by professional post makers, do not try this type of posting on your own without extensive training, lovely assistants and a trusty clown horn.

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                            • #15
                              I am one opinion of many, but I would do it in foam. It would not be cheap, but it will look better than brick board. I would carve the mortar lines with a soldering iron, heat gun it for texture, then use acrylic stucco (shot from a hopper) to coat it, and then detail paint the bricks. I am in Dallas TX and used the same techniques on white foam for my castle and it looks great after seven years.
                              Allen H
                              www.Stiltbeaststudios.com
                              http://www.youtube.com/user/Stiltbea...s?feature=mhee

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