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  • #16
    Yes the walls are self supporting ... as for what you described under the walls there is no need for that either. Our walls in all the haunts we own or build for other people are installed one wall after another on any surface with nothing supporting the bottoms. The walls are in and of themselves self supporting. If you stud the walls as Shane suggested then all the walls as in whole entire sections of wall are one big long piece... none of our walls are like that. Each wall is a self contained 4x8 wall panel that can be put up and taken down at will, stacked, packed, loaded, unloaded, moved, blah, blah.

    There is simply no need to secure walls to the floor if you build the walls correctly... and in the long run when you do renovations it will be easier to move things around and change stuff.

    But again hey it doesn't hurt to pop them into the floor no doubt about it... but if you don't need to why do it? Larry
    Larry Kirchner
    President
    www.HalloweenProductions.com
    www.BlacklightAttractions.com
    www.HauntedHouseSupplies.com
    www.HauntedHouseMagazine.com

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    • #17
      It all depends on your states building code, and ultimately what the building inspector wants. I imagine you will have to have an architect draw up your plans, them submit them to the building dept for a building permit. Your inspectors will tell you what they expect. You need to make them happy and follow the code as closely as possible.

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      • #18
        Google SketchUp can be your best friend! You can completely pre-design your attraction and look at it virtually using real world measurements and even export blue prints! This can save you A LOT of time and money in the long run.

        -Tyler
        http://www.hauntdesignkit.com
        >Download free Google SketchUp collections made just for haunt owners and designers.

        Like us on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/HauntDesignKit

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        • #19
          Fun convos! First, I'm buying a Darkness tour ticket next year at TW and I'm kicking EVERY single wall as I go. I DO believe that was the proposal?! Haha. Second, SC must have the slackest building inspectors ever. It COULD be because we grandfather into a lot (lack of sprinklers, etc.)...but we also aren't required at our location to bolt/nail/screw panels to the ground. The guy who built our show before I came around used to nail the panels down and when I came in I found it to be THE most annoying thing ever. Our show changes 100% every year and when I needed to shift panels I found myself chipping off tons of concrete and splitting lots of panel bottoms cause they were a PAIN to get up. Now I won't lie, in HIGH scare areas I've noticed a wall bottom get pushed out, but that's so few and far between. Our halls are close enough in proximity to, as King Kirchner said, support themselves. I'm gonna be a never say never person here, but *knock on wood* hopefully we will NEVER have to secure panels like that. PAIN PAIN PAIN.
          O'Shawn McClendon
          Creative Chair -- Operator: Cayce-West Columbia Hall of Horrors

          One mans junk is another mans kick-ass new prop...

          http://www.hallofhorrors.com

          http://twitter.com/hallofhorrors

          http://cwchallofhorrors.blogspot.com

          http://www.youtube.com/hallofhorrors

          http://www.myspace.com/cwcjc_hallofhorrors

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          • #20
            I like this thread!

            I want to chime in just a bit, when we build our haunts, we never have to attach the panels to the floor, we screw one sided walls together via the end 2x4's top middle and bottom, and as we go we use a small section of 2x4 to brace the pieces together to one another on the top (usually we go about a foot in each direction with two screws going down into each panel), we use angled panels for stability wherever possible, but for longer panel runs we take 2x4's and extend it to another wall across the pathway for stability, and lastly we go through and any angled walls that seem to be in an area where they might be in contact with people (actors or patrons) we do an angled 2x4 brace up top.

            We've never had a wall move or bust out.

            For double sides walls, we construct everything single sided first than add on the other side of the panel. A simple piece of colored duct tape at the top of that panel lets us know that that is the side to be unscrewed to disassemble at the end of the season.

            I walk along the top of the walls all the time in our haunts be it to wire lights or animatronics, make repairs to connections or whatever, even just to get to different scenes faster, and have never had an issue with anything breaking or cracking or moving....

            NOW, depending on your LOCAL building departments, some may not understand how haunts work, and therefore just treat it as if you're REALLY BUILDING A HOUSE....since its a rather rare thing for them, a lot of local officials vary in how they want you to build out. It shouldn't be your focus to simply do a build out but to go the extra step to explain and teach your local officials. There's things they don't know and things you could also learn from them, it's a process and when you are malleable and work with them the extra mile, it's better and easier on both parties.

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            • #21
              walls

              I've been in the building/construction industry for the past ten years and have seen so many different construction methods of building or framing walls. I think it all depends on how you frame your walls or how you've created your modular system. Without a doubt if your wall is a solid state wall that is framed like traditional building 16 or 24 inch on center studding I'd go into the ground with a wedge anchor through the sill plate instead of Tapcons because they break and spin out to easy if you don't drill the pilot hole correctly. Wedge anchors are drilled in with a hammer drill and if you need to remove them you have two options. Option A bang them through the concrete slab and fill with cement fix or concrete adhesive or grind them off so they're level with the floor. I will also say though that I agree with Larry as well on a modular system. If your modular system is secured in three to four spots including top and bottom and into another modular panel then it would be incredibly hard to move and/or pull apart after it was standing. This is on the assumption your walls are constructed using 2x4s and adequate cross bracing. I think if you look back at Shane's progress pics for Disturbia you can see the traditional framing route. And I'm sure there are some great progress threads on modular wall set up in here too. I see both ways being successful if DONE CORRECTLY. Larry maybe if you ever get the chance you could take a snap shot or two of how you connect your modular system together at the top. It might help.

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              • #22
                Your facility and haunt design has a lot to do with the way your inspector looks at your project. The "Flammability rating" for your facility and specific words you use when talking to an inspector can play a huge factor in how an inspector views your project. If you tell him you're gonna be in this facility for a few years, he'll be thinking "permanent structure". Inspectors that are in cities that have a lot of seasonal business are more apt to have more experience in this area.

                Its been my experience that most inspectors are ignorant to codes that pertain to "amusements" and instead of them taking a chance on what they don't know or haven't see before, they fall back on what they do know "traditional building codes for residential and commercial buildings".

                The fastest way to pass an inspection is to do what the inspector says you have to do to pass inspection.

                The best way to teach an inspector something new is to ask them about something their not sure of, (be inquisitive, not pushy) a good inspector will go back and do some research on the issue, I've even had a few admit to having to call a bigger city for an answer. If they're honest they'll get back with you with a few options. There ARE codes for temporary structures and amusement or entertainment type structures.

                I hope I've explained this well enough and not just added confusion to the conversation.
                Chris Riehl
                Sales@spookyfinder.com
                (586)209-6935
                www.spookyfinder.com

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