Steel vs Wood

[tmoore]

Has anyone used steel studs instead of wood for their haunt? Looking for pros and cons involving the two.

[eanderso13]

Never worked with Metal studs, but i hear they are more of a pain than wood. Harder to cut and harder to move, if you end up screwing up. Also, they are a bit more expensive, from what I've seen.

If your city does not require metal studs, I would not worry about it; just flame retard your wood studs. But sometimes they try to push you to use metal in a commercial application.

[Darksidestew]

Steel studs are required for Pro haunts....

Stew

[Karl Fields]

Steel studs are required for Pro haunts....

Stew

Hey Stew - Can you site a code reference on this?

[Darksidestew]

Do not have the code reference on hand. But , I can tell you that my experience with our 59,000 sq. ft haunt. and setting up others.

you can apply for a TEMPORARY Permit to build with wood studs. Temp Meaning 1 year or less.

The following year you can not apply for another temp and the wood has to come down and converted to steel studs, according to the Fire Marshall.

Stew

[tmoore]

Our local ordinance does not have any specifics on the use of wood or metal studs but then it was drafted only a couple of years ago.

[pickle]

AHHH the million dollar question. I've been a general contractor building both custom homes & commercial projects for more than 25 years. I have never seen more confusion, finger pointing and mis-understanding from fire officials, both locally & the state (NJ). I think they are all on extra "hi-alert" & do not want any possible connections to a haunt that could possible "go wrong" because of the stigma attached to our industry. After 25 years of dealing with inspectors (both locally & on the state level) and having great working relationships with them, it was apparent no one wants to be involved with us! lol Seriously, my project literally nearly pushed me over the edge with the amount of run around I got...whether from them being uneducated on the codes or purposely because of what I was building under their "watch". Between our state (NJ) & a VERY stubborn FM I finally prevailed and we got our 30,000' indoor haunt open! I learned more that one year than I probably learned over the last 25 years regarding Haunt Construction!

Generally, if you're building this haunt indoors & it is more than 1,000' square feet you must follow IBC 2012 (International Building Code) that EVERY state must follow (as far as what my engineer tells me). You can look up these codes in Google under IBC 2012 . Under IBC code for commercial building codes you need to follow Section 303...you'll more than likely fall under "Group A" (which is "Amusements". If you go to chapter 6/Section 602.2 Types I & II is generally all "non-combustible" (meaning metal) , "except as outlined in Section 603"... "fire treated lumber is allowable if required fire rating is less than 2 hours". Now here's the kicker...the state's usually give the "final say" to the local FM. Which in my opinion allows for way to many "gray areas" & overridding authority! Best to check right now!

You will also need to go to Chapter 410, "Special Amusements"...which is what THEY label us...don't you feel special??? lol Under this section you will see the codes you will need to adfhere to (along with the IFC) International Fire Code, up and above the general IBC code.

Long story short...when I built my haunt last year it was much cheaper to build with metal studs & drywall rather than fire rated lumber & sheathing. And be careful on treating the lumber yourself...my FM would NOT accept us treating any lumber...it had to be factory treated with labels on each piece! Check with your local FM prior to wasting your time & money. Another "gray area"! Contrary to belief metal stud framing is actually quick & easy once you get the hang of it.

Now I would agree if you are either a temporary haunt (meaning you need to break everything down @ end of season) or you plan on massive wall movements every season than obviously the wood panels are going to be the way to go, however if you are somewhat permanent or are going to leave the majority of walls in place...I'd go metal/drywall.

I hope this didn't discourage you...I just think it's better to be well informed so your not caught of guard. And please don't misunderstand me...I am ALL for safety...we went above & beyond in nearly every area of safety we could possibly go...I take the responsibility of my customers/employees safety VERY seriously (my 3 children also work there with me). What frustrates me is the lack of code knowledge by individuals that are SUPPOSED to know the codes. Rather than admitting they aren't sure or "they'll look into it" , you just get the run around or purposely delayed. We had nearly a million bucks on the line & we nearly didn't get open due to the "attitude" of some officials. In a state that our Gov. is touting job growth (we employed nearly 100) & business expansion (pumped nearly $1m into trades/construction), we just got "blown off" & delayed until a threat of serious litigation got some people to take notice! It's just very dissapointing, especially in this fine economy we've been in the last 5 years or so! Sorry I sound bitter...well...'cause I still am! Hopefully things will improve sometime soon in this business "unfriendly" state!

Ahhh...I feel better already!

Just my 2 cents...

Pickle

[eanderso13]

Great post, Pickle! We had talked to the state of Michigan and they referenced specific flame spread ratings that needed to be met, not a specific material restriction, but it makes sense that the local municipality could supersede this and be more strict.

[drfrightner]

I would NOT use metal for ANY reason... especially if you want to take it down and move it down the road. For one they are not as strong, for two you have to use three times as many to make a wall strong, three they are harder to work with and I've seen guys get their hands nearly sliced in half using them.

Overall I wouldn't even consider it.

Larry