Fright automation units

[SSP]

I am planning on building up some props and adding some programming and pneumatics, but what companies make the best programming unit for the price? I've seen the Boobox (and it's other forms), Terror By Designs units, but has anyone actually had any experience with these? What are some other companies? I am hoping to hook up both lights and solenoid air valves to these, but also have little idea on how to wire the damn things. Which ones also come with the best sound quality? I am going to start from scratch, so any info is welcome.

I plan on converting my electric chair from a motor to a pneumatic, and reconstructing a large werewolf prop I borrowed from a friend, made by Stagefright. I have been running into wall after wall trying to find information and methods on how to make all this run smoothly, simply, and by itself with a simple trigger.

[Duke of Darkness]

I am not the most technical person as haunters go, and I find many of the controllers confusing. That is why you may get all kinds of different answers here, but I love the BooBox. Not because it is the most powerful or has the most features, but because its use is very intuitive and I was up an running after only a few minutes of trying to figure it out.

I too, however, would like to hear from others who have used a variety of controllers.

Dave

[Jim Warfield]

If all else fails, grab the thread and swing that balled-up Kleenex ghost over your own head and act scared, they have to laugh or scream, of course if the laughing only comes after the straight-jacket straps are pulled tighter, then that's no good.
A $5.00 motion switch wired with a push button over-ride to activate it if you need to do so.
Radio-remote controls switching 120 volts via a hand held remote works good too.
Many pnuematic valves automatically reverse themseves at the end of their "On" cycle, this solves resetting the electric chair guy.
A mercury tube from an old wall therostat can carry low voltage to switch relays from "Normally On" to "Normally Off" settings, they can also be mounted on a moving part of the prop to activate another power source like a sound making device.

[Ken Spriggs]

HA

I am a complete moron when it comes to controllers....BUT I do know that the BOOBOX...since we have 2 or 3 of them .... is really easy to use.

(I even know how to reprogram it)

[Jim Warfield]

I tried to re-program a "Boo-Box" when I was in high school, it didn't work, we got divorced later.

[lurker]

I agree with everyone else. For ease of use, and durability, the BOObox is the way to go. And the guys from Fright Ideas are great to work with.

[KroneDaddy]

Here is a link for the manual for the BooBox in PDF format you can download. This might help a bit.

http://monsterguts.com/BooBox_Manual.pdf

As for automated props, I still have people pulling strings and flippin switches.

Good Luck

KDaddy

[lurker]

There is a lot to be said for pulling strings, flipping switches, and pushing buttons. It's cheap, and it lets the actor call the shots when it comes to timing. Of course, if you are like me, you have some actors with timing less accurate than a simple machine.
Ideally it is best to be ready to substitute a button pusher switch flipper with a devise, and vise versa, depending on the situation.

[MindWerxKMG]

Boo Box and the less expensive Pico Boo's are the way to go. I use several Pico Boos at Nightshade Manor. They are extremely easy to program, have flexible trigger device options and are extremely reliable.

[Jonathan]

I have always gone with the BooBox but I am open to new ways andporducts to do things.

Good PDF link too Krone.

[Jim Warfield]

If you care about your customers (Your "Bread& Butter", remember?) having a good time, an actual person making the decision to activate or not activate a display makes the difference between scaring some all ready terrorized little kid so badly that they will never see another Haunted House or allowing them to pass by unscared, possibly helping to create another future customer.
motion switches don't operate like this.

[bhays]

If you just need simple control, Carl Cowley's PET's rock.

www.cowlacious.com

[Duke of Darkness]

Jim, I agree that it is often better to have a person trigger an effect than a motion sensor or other automatic trigger. Again, the Boo Box is ideal for this application because you can have someone push a button (it is even possible to set it on a remote control) and have a program begin that includes audio, as well as several timed effects. It seems from the other posts in this thread that I am not alone in my enthusiasm for the Boo Box, but we have still not heard much about other options....

Dave

[Karl Fields]

We used to use Gilderfluke exclusively, but when the Cowlacious PET came on the scene we started using those also. Both are fine units with pluses and minuses. We had some new props that we needed controllers for this year and purchased half dozen of Sprawling Delusion's OEM KeyBanger with audio and motion sensor. Controls 24vdc solenoid valves directly, output to powered speakers directly,simply plug the supplied wall wart in and your ready.
"Programming" is too easy to call it that, push the buttons to mimic, real time, what you want the prop doing and save it. Without using a string, it can't get much easier than that!

[Jim Warfield]

Karl, How easy do you think "String" is when I plant my own cotton, pick it, roll it, lacquer it and do it all mice elf!????
Huh? Huh?